Chef Sean Brock Reveals the 5 Fats That Flavor the Essential Fried Chicken at Darling Restaurant, Why He’s Obsessed With Vinyl and His Scary Dolly Parton Story

Sean Brock might be just as consumed with vintage Southern-flavored vinyl as he is with interpreting the original flavors of the American South. In his one-year-old West Hollywood restaurant Darling, a large listening bar is centered in the middle of the airy room, the plywood shelves filled with rarities from Dolly Parton to Merle Haggard…and sometimes a touch of Madonna.
The James Beard-award winning chef has been featured on Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” and was a host on PBS’ “Mind of a Chef,” and became known for reviving heritage varieties of quintessential Southern products like corn, rice and pork and incorporating them in deeply-considered dishes at his Charleston restaurant Husk.
Related Stories
'A Good Girl's Guide to Murder' Renewed for Third and Final Season at Netflix
'House of Guinness' Renewed for Season 2 by Netflix (EXCLUSIVE)
In Los Angeles, he’s been exploring the lush offerings of local farmer’s markets while introducing robust Southern specialties — paired with a suitable backdrop of vintage country sounds.
Popular on Variety
“My curiosity has kind of drifted from trying to understand how food ends up on a plate and place to why music sounds the way it sounds in a place,” says Brock, who is splitting his time between L.A. and Nashville, where he currently has Sho Pizza Bar and several locations of Joyland.
By popular demand, Brock has added the kind of soulful plates he made his name with to Darling’s menu. “You can’t come out here and not cook grits. It’s been almost like a rebirth for me, with a new audience of eager listeners, people who finally get to taste the cornbread, finally get to taste the iconic country ham from a barn in Kentucky, and fish and grits, and succotash,” he says.
The celebrated chef has created a spot where music-loving celebrities can indulge their inner DJ, from Bill Murray spinning discs one night to hosting a party for Mumford and Sons or Dan Auerbach of the Black Keys coming by to check out the premium sound system.
“When I went to Japan for the very first time, I stumbled across this listening bar concept, and it became my favorite thing to do at the end of the day there. I’ve always dreamt about how can I weave my love of music and my curiosity about music into the restaurant experience,” says Brock.
“The way that I gather and seek old varieties of corn or rice, I’m doing the same thing with old seven-inch 45-rpm records from from the South,” he says.
“I grew up in bluegrass country not too far from the Carter family fold. I grew up around fiddle players and mandolin players, so that’s the natural rhythm of the place that I’m from, and being able to bring some of that music here is really exciting to me,” Brock explains. His quest for original copies and first vinyl pressings may be a little obsessive, but it’s the same kind of intense focus that led him to become a pioneer in sourcing the most flavorful varieties of country ham or heirloom corn for his elevated Southern approach.
On a recent night at Darling, Brock played Dolly Parton’s entire catalog starting with her first 1967 record up to 1987. “It was like a study,” he says, “I heard country music change for 20 years, I heard the guitar tones change, I heard the rhythms change, I heard the introduction of synthesizers and drum machines. It was really neat to feel timeline of traditional country music.”
Brock’s musical fixations include Jennings, Merle Haggard and anything with a pedal steel guitar, he says. “I have thousands of rare honky tonk 45s, and I’ve got a whole collection of music just dedicated to the pedal steel, on top of the incredible soul and funk and jazz that was also made in the South in the ’60s and ’70s.”
The chef may have a deep love for Dolly Parton’s music, but earlier in his career one of his dishes nearly injured the beloved singer. It was during his Ferran Adria liquid nitrogen experimental era, when he created a dessert with milk sorbet and fruit flash frozen with liquid nitrogen. The server left a metal spoon in the dish touching the liquid nitrogen, which will instantly freeze anything that it comes in contact with — such as a banjo-playing icon’s fingers. Brock rushed out of the kitchen and mananged to grab the dish just before she reached for it. “That would have frozen her mouth together, and who knows what would have happened,” he recalls with some horror.
With Darling’s choices like the famous limited-edition dry-aged steak burger, bbq pork chops and the smoky, luscious succotash, it’s hard to settle on a signature dish. But Brock says, “I think the corn bread tells the best story. Cornbread made by a die-hard southerner…made by somebody who’s obsessed with what is the perfect skillet of cornbread.” He pairs the cast-iron plate of crusty bread with French butter, with Ojai pixie tangerine jam adding a ray of California sun. Then there’s the compelling 5-fat fried chicken served with house hot sauce — cooked in a diabolical mixture of smoked butter, chicken fat, country ham, smoked bacon and lard.
“When you go to somebody’s house and you see a coffee can on the back of the stove full of drippings, that started to really inspire me. I wanted to see how far I could go with flavor and uniqueness,” he explains.
From housemade pickles with the fried chicken to country ham with melon and sorrel, the menu spotlights the best California produce, layered with Southern traditions. “I’ve finally gotten through a full year of the market, and so I have a much better understanding now,” he explains.
“The stories of Southern food run so deep,” Brock says. “There’s so much to share with L.A. I just get giddy about it every time I think about it.”
Darling restaurant, 631 N. Robertson, West Hollywood
Jump to Comments-
Kelvin Harrison Jr. Joins Jury, Will Present Golden Globes Prize for Documentary in Cannes
-
MetFilm Sales Acquires Mongolian Documentary ‘Colors of White Rock’ Ahead of World Premiere at Tribeca (EXCLUSIVE)
-
Sundance Prizewinning Documentary ‘Birds of War’ Sells to Several Territories, Lines Up Oscar-Qualifying Run, Debuts Trailer (EXCLUSIVE)
-
Liz Garbus’ ESPN Doc ‘Give Me The Ball!’ About Billie Jean King Will Open Croatia International Film Festival (EXCLUSIVE)
-
Jeff Bridges Narrated Documentary ‘In the Company of Wolves: An American Journey’ Acquired by Vision Films (EXCLUSIVE)
-
Millennium Docs Against Gravity Festival Director on How Documentary Film Helps Audiences Find ‘Sense Amid the Chaos’ of Current Events
Badenoch blasts 'moaning' female Labour MPs over Burnham jobs 'quota'

Kemi Badenoch has told Labour women to earn a job in Andy Burnham's Cabinet instead of demanding they are handed jobs because of their gender.
The Tory leader lashed out today amid reports that female MPs are demanding the de-facto new prime minister introduce a 50:50 gender split 'quota' in his government.
Amid reports that former foreign secretary David Miliband is being lined up to return to the role, possibly with his brother Ed as Chancellor, one female minister also complained that Burnham could not have 'more Milibands than women' in the top posts.
But in a scathing article in the Times today Mrs Badenoch told them to 'stop moaning' and get chosen on merit instead of retreating into 'more of the failed identity politics that is holding back our country'.
'There are many, many reasons why you shouldn't have any Milibands in the cabinet,' she said.
'But complaining that the boys haven't given them the right jobs or that the boys are taking all the jobs, just shows that Labour's women still don't get it.'
The idea of quotas was also attacked by Baroness Jacqui Smith, Labour's Skills Minister.
Asked by Times Radio if Mr Burnham should reserve jobs for women, she said: 'No, I think what Andy Burnham should be doing is building the very best team around him to change this country.'
A letter written by the Women's Parliamentary Labour Party has called on Mr Burnham to ensure a 50:50 split between men and women in government jobs
Amid reports that former foreign secretary David Miliband (above, right, in 2010) is being lined up to return to the role, possibly with his brother Ed as Chancellor, one female minister complained that Burnham could not have 'more Milibands than women' in the top posts
But Mrs Badenoch told them to pipe down and get chosen on merit instead of retreating into 'more of the failed identity politics that is holding back our country'
A letter written by the Women's Parliamentary Labour Party and seen by the BBC has called on Mr Burnham to ensure a 50:50 split between men and women in government jobs after he succeeds Sir Keir Starmer.
'We are asking you to demonstrate this change from day one and address the toxicity and misogyny within our own party and government,' it said.
Labour has never had a female leader, while the Conservatives have had three, and Mrs Badenoch urged the government to follow its meritocratic example.
'If you run a meritocracy, then you do not have to worry about jobs for the boys,' she wrote.
'Every woman who is a Conservative MP, every woman who has ever won the leadership, has had to fight to get where she is.
'By contrast, Labour women are demanding guarantees from Burnham. But the truth is he doesn't have to give any guarantees.
'If none of Labour's women are prepared to get their hands dirty and challenge him for the leadership, their demands are toothless.'
'In fact, it's quite revealing that the women's parliamentary Labour Party has written to Burnham asking him to commit himself to at least 50 per cent female ministers.
'This has nothing to do with meritocracy. It is yet more of the failed identity politics that is holding back our country.'
Venezuela Fury and Noah Price subsidising their life by livestreaming

Venezuela Fury and her husband Noah Price look to be making their own way in the world by raking it in from their lucrative social media accounts.
The influencer daughter of Tyson and Paris Fury, 16, has become an internet sensation after tying the knot with her husband Noah, 19, earlier this year.
Since getting married and moving in together the couple have been earning thousands of pounds a month, livestreaming their life as newlyweds in their static caravan in the East Riding of Yorkshire.
And fans can't get enough of their regular life updates on TikTok and Kick, which have proved to be very profitable for the pair.
They look to be supporting themselves after Noah denied that he was given £5million by Venezuela's family as a wedding gift.
Despite his wife's huge family wealth, an estimated combined £160 million, Noah recently told his Kick followers that he 'pays for everything' for the couple.
Making light of the claims about Venezuela's millionaire financial status, Noah said: 'I actually pay for everything unfortunately. You'd expect the millionaire to pay for it wouldn't you.'
Venezuela Fury and Noah Price are earning thousands livestreaming their caravan life - after her new groom insisted he pays all the bills and denied he had £5m handout from her dad
The influencer daughter of Tyson and Paris Fury , 16, has become an internet sensation after tying the knot with her husband Noah, 19, earlier this year
Venezuela then asked their fans: 'Do you think I am a millionaire?'
Noah joked: 'She isn't a secret millionaire guys', before she broke into song and sang: 'But I live like a millionaire!'
But it seems according to estimated calculations from their social media work, Noah and Venezuela can more than afford to support themselves.
Noah has been livestreaming on platforms such as Kick and TikTok, where viewers can send paid gifts or donations.
He was previously encouraging viewers to send gifts on his honeymoon during livestreams, suggesting this is one revenue stream.
Both Noah and Venezuela have built substantial followings on Instagram and TikTok. They can potentially earn money through sponsored posts, brand collaborations, affiliate links and creator payouts.
Kick allows its creators to take home 95 per cent of the £4.99 subscription cost that fans pay.
Streamers keep 100 per cent of direct tips and donations, minus minor standard payment processing fees.
It is unclear how many subscribers Noah currently has because this information is hidden, but he does have 7,200 followers which is publicly viewable.
An industry insider has suggested Noah is making around £400 per video on TikTok, while Venezuela is likely to make £2,000 due to her following count of 1.3 million.
An industry insider has suggested Noah is making around £400 per video on TikTok, while Venezuela is likely to make £2,000 due to her following count of 1.3 million
In one video on their honeymoon, Noah asked his followers if they'd give them some more gifts now that they were married.
In a TikTok live viewed by 20,000 he said: 'Keep liking our videos people, keep sending gifts.'
After saying thank you to several of his followers he joked they should stick around on the livestream and 'watch Venezuela punch me in the mouth'.
The other half of the honeymooning couple said: 'I am, honestly!'
Noah previously confirmed that the pair don't share their finances after they were asked whether they have a shared bank account.
'She earns her money, I earn mine,' said Noah, as Venezuela joked: 'Yeah, what you gonna do about it.'
Noah went on to debunk the rumour that Tyson gave him £5million when he tied the knot with his daughter as he insisted: 'No Tyson did not give me £5million'.
Meanwhile Venezuela is being eyed up by executives for a fly on the wall TV series.
Noah went on to debunk the rumour that Tyson gave him £5million when he tied the knot with his daughter as he insisted: 'No Tyson did not give me £5million'
Boasting 1.3 million TikTok followers, Venezuela is already entertaining fans with her honest musings and candid moments, from cooking to kitting out her and Noah's static caravan home.
And following the success of the Netflix series At Home With The Furys, it is no wonder bosses are wanting to draw on the Fury popularity.
A TV insider said: 'The couple are not A-list celebrities but everyone has become obsessed with their love story.
'People are genuinely intrigued by them. Whether it’s the fact they have married so young, Venezuela’s famous family or their gypsy lifestyle, they have the ‘X factor'.
'Several TV executives think a proper fly-on-the-wall series following their lives as newlyweds in the gypsy community would be fascinating,' they told The Sun.
It is thought Netflix would be likely to produce the series due to their already established relationship with the Furys.
Venezuela's representatives told The Daily Mail: 'We have many offers on the table regarding Venezuela which we are discussing.'